What's the difference between English and French fashion during the Tudor era (1500-40s)?
I have a fascination with the Tudor era (Henry VIII and whatnot), and there are many frustrations I have come across in my studies. A lot of texts mention "English fashion" versus "French fashion". I've started to accept these phrases within the context of Henry VII's reign (up until 1509), but after that, I am soooo confused.
I mean, to me, they look the same! @_@ The only difference I can see is the French hood! Therefore, when I read decriptions of Anne Boleyn or Katherine Howard fancying "French" fashions, I don't understand what this means. T_T
If anyone could help, I would appreciate it so much.. References are more than welcome!
The French hood is the most obvious! It's true that the French court was seen as very stylish, and Anne seems to have brought many of its aspects back to England with her. Spanish styles were also dominant with its sobriety and austere elegance. Henry's first wife was from Spain, so she would have brought some fashions with her, although Englishmen were not entranced by her ladies; and they were not impressed with the German fashions of Anne of Cleves. Fashion changed much more slowly than it does today, and there weren't huge differences.
"The fashions of Tudor England were distinctive and unique. Despite the fact that most of the fashions adopted by the English court came from France, they are still associated with Henry VIII. Women's fashions were by far the most remarkable. It is during this period that undergarments became as important as the outer clothing in creating the desired effect. Up until the early 1500s and in Italy throughout the Renaissance clothing conformed to the human body. The Spanish royalty and nobles began putting highborn ladies in triangular whalebone cages (called farthingales) from the waist down, and in tightly laced conical corsets from the waist up. The French preferred the flowing skirts of the Italian styles, but improvised the corset to push the breasts up almost to the low neckline of the bodice. The English managed to put the two together for a something that looked like two cones set tip to tip in the narrow middle. English ladies wore the standard chemise under their corsets and farthingales. The rigid underfittings not only gave the costume it's unique shape, but also supported great weights of heavy fabrics. The great gabled headpieces with their long veils added additional weight to the wellborn. The light crescent headpiece favored by French ladies and brought to Henry's court by Anne Boleyn was a comfortable improvement over the heavier wooden and fabric headdresses. Fabric was generally heavy, and fur was sewn into sleeves and collars during the winter months to protect the wearer from the English dank and chill."
http://business.fortunecity.com/ingram/204/englishtudortext.html
This is from the TV series "The Tudors", which is not historically accurate, but these pages are interesting:
http://tudorswiki.sho.com/page/The+Tudors+Costumes+%3A+Women%27s+Dress
http://tudorswiki.sho.com/page/The+Tudors+Costumes+%3A+Men%27s+Dress
http://tudorswiki.sho.com/page/The+Tudors+Costumes+%3A+Childrens+dress
This is an interesting discussion; do read what PhD Historian has to say:
http://tudorhistory.org/queryblog/2008/06/questions-from-lilly-womens-clothing.html
There's so much detail (and in the detail) that it would take me ages to type out, but I recommend some of the books on the history of fashion that I find fascinating:
"Fashion, The Mirror of History" by Michael and Ariane Batterberry
"A History of Costume in the West" by Francois Boucher
"A Concise History of Costume" by James Laver
"The Story of Clothes" by Agnes Allen
"A History of English Costume" by Iris Brooke
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